Pic: Rip Curl

Bethany Hamilton confirms maddog lunatic legend status with total conquering of Chopes

“A week or so before the swell hit my brother Tim texted me about the forecast, and it looked amazing,” said Bethany. “I was hoping it was a bit bigger to whip a few but it wasn’t. It was a fun challenge to paddle with some of the guys though! I’m always game to go to beautiful Tahiti! It’s such a beautiful and intimidating wave. For me, positioning and direction of swell is super important for catching waves.

“Over the years I’ve learnt that you’ve got to be willing to try the so-called ‘impossible’ and hold true to who you are and what gets you fired up.”

Watch below…

Surfing World