THE O’RIGINALS PART 3 – DAN JOHNSON, STUDENT AND SHAPER

“I don’t surf to be the best. I surf because it’s pretty much the funnest thing.”

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The final hit of O’Neill’s new docu-series The O’RIGINALS is an intro to quirky, loveable surf rat Dan Johnson. Dan is of the “ride anything” mentality – sliding across the waves is his sole focus and you get the feeling this is a kid who rarely stops smiling.

As a new resident to his beloved holiday destination of Crescent Head, Dan was baffled by just how quiet the sleepy town can get when the surf’s flat and the tourists have packed up and gone home. Fuelled by the stillness and determined to find a meaningful way to bond with his father on his regular visits, Dan set up a shaping bay under the house.

He doesn’t necessarily care how the boards turn out. He isn’t fazed if he isn’t the best guy in the water. All Dan’s concerned with is being the guy with the biggest grin.

The nostalgia and peacefulness this clip inspires makes it a fitting full stop on Part One of this series.

 

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