Predictions: Everyone Will Be Injured!

In a recent Christmas-holiday incident near Byron Bay, a man was struck by a loose longboard (not his own). He was taken to hospital where it was revealed he had fractured his pelvis and femur in the incident.

 The nurse involved suggested to the man that he alert the media to this, since she had heard of the dreadful fashion-statement practice of riding a longboard in crowded surf zones without a leash, and felt it should be brought to the world’s attention.

The man said no, thanks, he’d rather not have the attention of the media lavished upon him. Otherwise you’d have heard all about this incident somewhere else already.

But can I tell ya, this is the tip of the Iceberg.

Surf injuries are going nuts right now.

I know this because I have recently been a bit obsessed with Surf Safety, researching and preparing a lil series on the subject for SW’s cousin, Coastalwatch.

And wherever I looked, people were getting hurt. If it wasn’t Extreme Hurt, like Dusty Payne’s horrible episode at Backdoor, it was lacerations, spinal contusions, fins in the leg, bumps on the head, everything. In one day at my home beach, I saw three people forced from the water because blood, and it wasn’t from being punched.

Further out, I was astounded to find that in the past four years, dozens of surfers around the world have suffered heart attacks in the water. In fact it’s currently the leading cause of death while surfing, and has been for at least a decade.

This is not a spike, it’s a trend, which means it’s probably gonna continue into 2018, and very likely get worse. That also goes for the leash free logging gig. And I bet people aren’t going to cease crashing into each other on takeoff in the near future, specially if they keep riding Stand Up Paddleboards, or even better, foilboards. Imagine being clocked by a goddam foilboard!

Anyway, keep your eyes peeled — and if you haven’t been hurt in the surf recently, look out. In 2018, your number may be up.