"To cut this short, if I was to get back to fins I knew it’d have to be cathartic, reflective, maybe chance to discover stuff back through the years that I didn’t figure at the time. Yep, a key also being no compromise." Photo Ted Grambeau

By Sean Doherty   POSTED: 1 day ago

HELLO OLD FRIEND

FROM SW414: DEREK HYND’S LIFE ON FINS

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Ben Howard, frontside B-double. Photo Josh Tabone

By Sean Doherty   POSTED: 2 months ago

I DRIVE A TRUCK

FROM SW412: BEN HOWARD’S LONG HAUL 2020

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By Sean Doherty   POSTED: 3 months ago

LEIF RIDES ON

FROM SW414: “WOULD YOU TRADE ONE YEAR OF YOUR LIFE FOR A MILLION DOLLARS?” HE REPLIED, “NO WAY, I WOULDN’T TRADE A MILLION DOLLARS FOR A DAY.”

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Bad uncle. Photo SA Rips

By Sean Doherty   POSTED: 3 months ago

THIRD RUN

FROM SW 412: “I WAS JUST LOOKING AT THIS EYEBALL, LIKE A LAWN BOWL, IT WAS BLACK OR… PURPLE… JUST LIKE THE DEVIL’S EYE.”

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Justine Dupont, Peahi... the shot after the SW413 cover. Photo Fred Pompermayer

By Sean Doherty   POSTED: 3 months ago

ALLEZ JUSTINE

FROM SW 414: “IN THE END THE WAVE DECIDES. YOU JUST HAVE TO BE READY WHEN IT DOES.”

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Lumachrome glass print, cliche-verre chemigram by Judith Nangala Crispin

By Sean Doherty   POSTED: 3 months ago

GEORGE’S BACKYARD

FROM SW414: GEORGE GREENOUGH VERSUS KING BROWN

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Encaustic wax transfer print of Angourie Point. By Duncan Macfarlane

By Sean Doherty   POSTED: 3 months ago

DIRRUNGAN

FROM SW414: A WELCOME TO YAEGL COUNTRY

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Brett Herro, man with golden helmet. Photo Driftwood Photography

By Sean Doherty   POSTED: 4 months ago

SO BRETT WENT WEST

FROM SW413: UNDERGROUND DEE WHY LORD BRETT HERRING HAS SPENT 25 YEARS LOOKING FOR EMPTY SURF

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Derek at 55 had one last great winter at Pipeline. Photo Brian Bielmann

By Sean Doherty   POSTED: 4 months ago

PIPE HAD HIS BACK

FROM SW412: TOM CARROLL REMEMBERS GREAT FRIEND AND RIVAL, DEREK HO

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Lobby loves a double hand-drag. Photo Trent Mitchell

By Sean Doherty   POSTED: 4 months ago

YOUNG GULL

LIAM O’BRIEN IS THE ONLY SURFER FROM BURLEIGH TO EVER READ PLATO’S REPUBLIC

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No. 1002-2014 (detail), oil on canvas and wood. By Wolfgang Bloch

By Sean Doherty   POSTED: 6 months ago

THE BRIGADOON OF SAND POINTS

FROM SW413: “IT TOOK ME AN HOUR TO WALK OUT THERE… AND A MONTH TO WALK BACK.”

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Light traffic in the channel at Lance's. Photo Hatsumi

By Sean Doherty   POSTED: 7 months ago

SPLENDID ISOLATION

FROM SW413: LEGENDARY SKIPPER JOHN MCGRODER RECALLS THE YEAR THE MENTAWAI ISLANDS FELL OFF THE MAP

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