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SW 399: Andy Irons

Surfing World by Surfing World
6 years ago
in Featured, Magazine, Uncategorized
1
SW 399: Andy Irons

Photo: Brian Bielmann

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“The lived truth of Andy’s story is carried by those closest to him, those who lived through it with him. It’s their truth before it’s anyone else’s, but they had to make peace with losing before they did anything,” writes Sean Doherty in his title story from this special issue of Surfing World Magazine.

Eight years after three time World Champion Andy Irons died in a Dallas hotel room, the story of what really happened in the years beforehand is finally being revealed in the tell-all documentary Andy Irons: Kissed By God.

With the heartbreaking, complete story finally told, a weight has been lifted from the people who were closest to Andy. Surfing World speaks exclusively to those people about how it feels to be set free to finally tell Andy’s story, while examining how Andy’s death has changed surfing’s relationship with mental illness, addiction and the truth.

A must-read Surfing World as we come to understand wholly one of our brightest ever stars, as well as our greater surfing community.

 

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  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING ISSUE: No.15 @lobster_cooked Thomas Robinson - ‘Lob’ - has lived an interesting life… a few of them actually. Between a couple of those lives he didn’t surf for eight years. Then on a freezing, maxing, hungover morning at Riley’s on the Irish west coast, he grabbed a spare boog, put a wettie on, and jumped off the rocks. @harrybryant remembers the day clearly. “We’re at this wave, Riley’s, and it’s like 10 foot, freezing cold, raining, ice-cold water. The water’s like, black. I’m looking at it and I’m not going out there. This is out of my league, but Lob just looks at it, and goes, ‘I’m fucking out there.’ I’m like, ‘Are you serious? You haven’t ridden a boog in 10 years and you’re gonna kick it off again out here?’ But there was not one ounce of doubt. He was so confident, but I was horrified. He starts putting his wettie on and we’re just looking at him thinking, Lob’s potentially going to drown here. Anyway, he gets his blown carcass off the rocks and kicks out into the lineup and waits for the biggest set to come and just starts kicking into it. He’s halfway down the face, and does the most textbook scoop, clean inside rail, bottom turns, and the whole wave just explodes around him. We were just like, holy shit. The next wave was as good as you could ride a wave on a bodyboard. I was sitting on the rocks with @wadegoodall, and we were just in disbelief. It almost brought a tear to my eye. I was like, that was the most beautiful thing I’d ever seen.” SW424 is on sale now… support independent surf culture. 📹 @jtudella
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING: @frankieharrer “According to @stephaniegilmore, Frankie is among an abnormally hardwired collection of surfers who have the “confidence in themselves and trust in the universe – they have this cosmic thing about them where they just know that they can go out, even at Pipeline and be just fine. She’ll give you this look, make this weird little noise, and just shrug her shoulders, as if to say ‘Well, we’re here now, so we may as well paddle out.’” SW424 is out now. Support independent surf culture. Words by @jackoneillpaterson 📷 @johnrespondek
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING, No.31 @jaiglindeman “I can’t count how many times I’ve been paddling through a lineup and the first glimpse of Jai has revealed him looking out from deep inside a tube, or dancing through an elegant carve, full of poise,” writes @wolffon35mm. “It’s that incredibly annoying quality that great surfers have: a knack of always being in the right place at the right time and an ability to read the ocean that goes beyond knowledge and into the realms of instinct. Jai can be a ghost at times, in a very Dave Rastovich kind of way. He picks his moments, dips in and out of the North Coast hordes, but often finds himself on the wave of the day.” SW424 is on sale now. Support independent surf. 📷 @swillpics
  • When we caught up with @kai_mckenzie to chat for the new mag, he’d just had his first surf since losing his leg to a great white back in July. It was a big first step, and he ain’t looking back from here. “I’m past it,” he says of the attack. “Yeah, that happened, but now I just don’t want to be associated with it. You go out and people look at you and shit. All these other people are trying to contact me, shark survivors and stuff, but I don’t want to be a shark survivor. I just want to be fucking me. I would rather be defined as a guy who is going to be back out there and fucking killing it with a new leg. I’ll be back out there doing everything again. I can’t wait. That’s how I want people to know me.” We chat with Kai in SW424, SW’s 50 Most Interesting issue. 📷 @joshuatabone
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING: No.21, Nathan Hedge At 45, @nathanhedge_ has already lived a big life, crashed and burned a couple of times, but has been sober for a decade and today is focused purely on life with his daughter… and his surfing. Hog has had his eye on this South Coast bommie for a while now, and earlier this year finally took it on. “I can’t go back and put an old head on young shoulders,” he says. “Through that journey, it was what it was, but that’s where the strength and the power came from. Today, I’m like wow, this is still happening. There’s this whole longevity. So, I’m actually really stoked that it was gnarly, because that’s what it took to get me to the fucking big burnout thing and to start over again. If I stayed in the middle of the road, maybe I’d still be in the middle of the road, and there’d be no Cloudbreaks or no South Coast bommies today.” SW424 is on sale now. 📷 @tomhealyphoto
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING: No.8, Kirk Jenkins “It’s weird where I sit in this community right now,” @thisiskirkjenkins says of his hometown of Cronulla. “I’m 39, I don’t have kids, I don’t have a mortgage, I don’t have a wife. I’m straight, I’m single. I live in a motor home. I’m an artist. I cruise around the streets, draw with chalk on the walls, and I know everyone here. I just feel a huge amount of acceptance. I think people have come to accept me as I am.” SW’s 50 Most Interesting issue is on sale now: 📷 @southofthebridge
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING: No.2 Noa Deane As a surfer, you are what you surf, and a wave-rich country like Australia offers an endless variety of parallel surfing lives you could be living. “It’s all just different, isn’t it?” Noa ponders. “You have to do stints everywhere in Oz to become a better surfer. Like, if you only lived in Margies, it’s so hard to do a turn there, I swear. I think here, too. It feels like you don’t do turns here.” Noa laughs of his home today down south. “So, I’m stoked at least I was up north for my whole life till now, at least I got some turns done!” SW424 is on sale now. 📷 @benjacksonphoto
  • Sad news overnight with the passing of Phyllis O’Donell… 1964 world champion and one of the hugest characters in Australian surfing. Before there was @naughty_pauls there was even Naughtier Phyllis. ‘Oh, I tricked around,’ remembers Phyllis of her surfing at the ‘64 World Titles at Manly. ‘I didn’t have a clue; they just played the groovy music and I relaxed and if they hadn’t played the groovy music I don’t think I would have won. I was a totally hopeless dancer; it was only on a board. ‘They announced the women’s before they should have and I was up there with Linda,’ recalls Phyllis of the presentation. ‘They announced that I had won the women’s. I didn’t win any money for the world title; I won the trophy and a carton of Craven A cigarettes.’ She pauses before admitting, ‘And I smoked them all! Linda and I went up to the Manly Pacific and we had a couple of noggins to celebrate.’ 📷 Ron Perrott, John Pennings
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