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THE QUIETER YOU ARE…

Danny Johnson by Danny Johnson
5 years ago
in Featured
0
THE QUIETER YOU ARE…
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Ever had a brain-gasm watching something when you were drunk? “This is incredible!” says the big dumbed juicy brain resting in your skull. Six hours later, when you wake up with less brain cells and less cognitive ability, you have to try and figure out how real the experience was? Was what I saw really that beautiful? Did you ever go to sleep with Bo Derek, and wake up with Bo Diddley? The premiere for Craig’s movie had me all buggley eyes, and yes, I was successfully very drunk on free beer, but did I doubt myself the next morning? Not for a second. My breath stunk, and I questioned the very nature of all aspects of reality, except Craig’s movie. Pretty much the best surf movie I’ve ever met, confirmed with a rewatch this morning. I know that contributed nothing to your viewing experience, I just thought I should let you know.

A clip by – Kai Neville

Cinematography – Dave Fox
Water Cinematography – Dave Fox

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  • ‘Crystal Sand’ just dropped online, another @torrenmartyn / @ishkaimagery / @needessentials diamond edit, this time featuring @deru_desu … who also appears in SW’s 50 MOST INTERESTING ISSUE. “Sometimes you get a sense Drew McPherson was summoned from the seventies to save the future. The blue denim and chambre shirt combo, the blonde mop and sideburns, the love of single-fins and throwback craft all create the visage. He was also living at Angourie for a few years, which really warped time around him. But beyond all this Drew has a very seventies way of seeing the world... and it’s a world that needs saving.“ SW424 is on sale now.
  • A little triumvirate of brilliance to stabilise your mood on a Wednesday afternoon. In SW424 we run the story of @dusty.rusty.tunes , a Lennox surfer who now lives in Koonya, Tassie where he surfs and makes music on a piano in the hallway. His story in the magazine is a brilliant piece written by Tassie surfing statesman, Mick Lawrence, who passed away earlier this year, shortly after it was penned. Finally, while staying down at the Koonya house while working on a film project, the horribly gifted @matty_hannon shot a one-take 7-minute film clip for Dusty’s song, ‘I’m in Love’. It’s low key brilliant, and for friends of Mick I’m sure they’ll be chuffed to see him again. The full 7-minute clip is up on the Surfing World site, along with Mick’s story, ‘Dusty Rusty’. SW424 is on sale now. Support independent surf culture.
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING No.9, Ruby Southwell Left-of-centre surfers like @rubyandthesunn are nonchalantly broadening the norms of women’s tube riding and reminding us of the deeper significance and responsibility of surf travel,” writes @theseakin. “For those who appreciate a more spacious approach, Ruby’s surfing is a breath of fresh air. A cross between Leah Dawson’s midlength stylings, and Steph’s fishy hip-forward explorations – Ruby’s surfing is distinctly her own and distinctly feminine. As a largely unheard of and unsponsored surfer, Ruby brings all the ease and flow of being 25 and having absolutely no outside expectation on her surfing – except fun. After years of solo travelling, Ruby moved to the remote Mentawai Islands, where she surf guided, taught herself how to tube ride and lived off-grid with a local family for just over two years.” SW424 is on sale now. Support independent surf culture. 📷 @_jackogrady_
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING: Sam Jones For a bunch of years now, Manly’s @jonceeeeena has been quietly chasing heavy surf around the country. This year Sam has been on a big-wave bender. A break-up with a long-term girlfriend will do that to you. He’s been to Shipstern twice and down to South Oz twice, including a month camping in the desert. You wouldn’t know it, though. Sam doesn’t post anything from those trips to social media. Sam doesn’t post much to social media at all. Sam’s local however, is Deadman’s, located smack-bang in the middle of Sydney, straight under a cliff, and when a swell big enough brings the wave to life, there are thousands of cameras on the clifftop blazing away. It lost its secret status about 20 years ago. Once deemed too scary to surf, in recent years it’s become a magnet to a new generation of heavy water punters, trying their luck. “It’s been blown out a bit in terms of the hype and people going, ‘Oh, you can paddle into some pretty big barrels at this joint’” offers Sam. “It’s pretty funny, the last three years, ever since that Lougher day, there’s been a lot of eyes on it.“ Sam’s story features in SW424, on sale now. 📷 @craigbrokensha
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING ISSUE 50 interesting cats, 50 illuminating profiles, some straight-up honest storytelling and classic imagery. It’s a 180-page, high concept framing of surfing today, published independently from a spare bedroom in Yamba. SW424 is on sale now at newsagents, stockists and online, link in bio.
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING ISSUE: No.15 @lobster_cooked Thomas Robinson - ‘Lob’ - has lived an interesting life… a few of them actually. Between a couple of those lives he didn’t surf for eight years. Then on a freezing, maxing, hungover morning at Riley’s on the Irish west coast, he grabbed a spare boog, put a wettie on, and jumped off the rocks. @harrybryant remembers the day clearly. “We’re at this wave, Riley’s, and it’s like 10 foot, freezing cold, raining, ice-cold water. The water’s like, black. I’m looking at it and I’m not going out there. This is out of my league, but Lob just looks at it, and goes, ‘I’m fucking out there.’ I’m like, ‘Are you serious? You haven’t ridden a boog in 10 years and you’re gonna kick it off again out here?’ But there was not one ounce of doubt. He was so confident, but I was horrified. He starts putting his wettie on and we’re just looking at him thinking, Lob’s potentially going to drown here. Anyway, he gets his blown carcass off the rocks and kicks out into the lineup and waits for the biggest set to come and just starts kicking into it. He’s halfway down the face, and does the most textbook scoop, clean inside rail, bottom turns, and the whole wave just explodes around him. We were just like, holy shit. The next wave was as good as you could ride a wave on a bodyboard. I was sitting on the rocks with @wadegoodall, and we were just in disbelief. It almost brought a tear to my eye. I was like, that was the most beautiful thing I’d ever seen.” SW424 is on sale now… support independent surf culture. 📹 @jtudella
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING: @frankieharrer “According to @stephaniegilmore, Frankie is among an abnormally hardwired collection of surfers who have the “confidence in themselves and trust in the universe – they have this cosmic thing about them where they just know that they can go out, even at Pipeline and be just fine. She’ll give you this look, make this weird little noise, and just shrug her shoulders, as if to say ‘Well, we’re here now, so we may as well paddle out.’” SW424 is out now. Support independent surf culture. Words by @jackoneillpaterson 📷 @johnrespondek
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING, No.31 @jaiglindeman “I can’t count how many times I’ve been paddling through a lineup and the first glimpse of Jai has revealed him looking out from deep inside a tube, or dancing through an elegant carve, full of poise,” writes @wolffon35mm. “It’s that incredibly annoying quality that great surfers have: a knack of always being in the right place at the right time and an ability to read the ocean that goes beyond knowledge and into the realms of instinct. Jai can be a ghost at times, in a very Dave Rastovich kind of way. He picks his moments, dips in and out of the North Coast hordes, but often finds himself on the wave of the day.” SW424 is on sale now. Support independent surf. 📷 @swillpics
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