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Weak Wrap: Hawaii Ruins Everything Again

Danny Johnson by Danny Johnson
7 years ago
in News, Videos, Weak Wrap
0
Weak Wrap: Hawaii Ruins Everything Again
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Hey pals. Real talk? I use Boost Mobile, and I’ve been using them since before they sponsored the show. I don’t get a discount either, I just like their 4G coverage on the Telstra Mobile network and sweet sweet data. Maybe they would give me a discount but I’ve never asked. Asking for stuff is creepy. I also like the name: BOOST! (I added the exclamation mark, it’s not part of the name). Remember when exclamation marks were illegal? It wasn’t that long ago. Then they started slipping back in ironically and now it seems they’ve really settled in strong. I used to go out with this girl that used them all the time. I’m talking three or four in a three or four line text message. It really ground my gears. Why was she yelling at me? Why couldn’t she just trust her words to have enough latent energy on their own? Why couldn’t she just leave it up to me to judge the necessary tone of the sentences based on the context of which they existed and their subject matter? Hey Mike! Are you reading this? You’re a word nerd, how do you feel about them? Actually, don’t worry about it, your answer will probably be too long and smart for me. It’s not why we broke up, but maybe it is, you know?

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  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING: No.2 Noa Deane As a surfer, you are what you surf, and a wave-rich country like Australia offers an endless variety of parallel surfing lives you could be living. “It’s all just different, isn’t it?” Noa ponders. “You have to do stints everywhere in Oz to become a better surfer. Like, if you only lived in Margies, it’s so hard to do a turn there, I swear. I think here, too. It feels like you don’t do turns here.” Noa laughs of his home today down south. “So, I’m stoked at least I was up north for my whole life till now, at least I got some turns done!” SW424 is on sale now. 📷 @benjacksonphoto
  • Sad news overnight with the passing of Phyllis O’Donell… 1964 world champion and one of the hugest characters in Australian surfing. Before there was @naughty_pauls there was even Naughtier Phyllis. ‘Oh, I tricked around,’ remembers Phyllis of her surfing at the ‘64 World Titles at Manly. ‘I didn’t have a clue; they just played the groovy music and I relaxed and if they hadn’t played the groovy music I don’t think I would have won. I was a totally hopeless dancer; it was only on a board. ‘They announced the women’s before they should have and I was up there with Linda,’ recalls Phyllis of the presentation. ‘They announced that I had won the women’s. I didn’t win any money for the world title; I won the trophy and a carton of Craven A cigarettes.’ She pauses before admitting, ‘And I smoked them all! Linda and I went up to the Manly Pacific and we had a couple of noggins to celebrate.’ 📷 Ron Perrott, John Pennings
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING… Ellis Ericson @ellisericson has gone down the rabbit hole with design ideas, most notably George Greenough’s edge board. He’s recently moved south to a stretch of coast where he’s got some land, built a shaping shed and a garden, and spends his days cutting blanks and working on cutting edge craft. For SW424 he up with old mate and fellow shaper @goodbugmix for a chat. “Yeah, I think if you’re surfing and hand-shaping, you will naturally spend enough time with that surfboard to make it your own. I think that’s the great thing about hand shaping; if you do it enough, you’ll shine through. I feel like your character will shine through in your boards and it’s like a reflection of your personality. I feel like you can see that with surfboards if you’re looking at it.” SW424 is on sale now. 📷 @short_films_
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING, No. 4 and 5, Dave Rastovich and Torren Martyn. Dave and Torren are building a boat on Dave’s North Coast property. The Gannet, when built will be an ocean going cat, capable of taking them through the Pacific and beyond. Derek Hynd sees the Gannet having wider cultural significance for surfing: “What the project represents is far greater than the sum of physical parts, namely the future of surfing – for those concerned enough to think about it. The serendipity is something else entirely. Beyond the world of Dave Rastovich these past 30 years, sits Torren Martyn as the artform’s beacon of hope. That Dave and Torren have come together ‘Before the Mast’ is one of the more vital bisections of surfing’s past 60 years. The environmental damage wrought by the surfer in what they ride and how they travel demands no less.” SW424 is on sale now: 📷 @milo_inglis @short_films_ @nickgreenphoto
  • The new mag has finally turned up at the Surfing World office, a week late (long story) and a cursory flick has confirmed it’s a big old brick of contemporary surfing life and culture. It’s 50 profile pieces of hugely interesting crew, written by some of the best in the game. These stories only come together with time, trust, and some low key genius with the written word. Thanks to everyone who contributed… @theseakin @farfieldfreefriction @jedaum_smith @goodbugmix @jockserong @ulski @andrewkidman @deru_desu @jackoneillpaterson @jamiebrisick @mrfunpig @mick.lawrence.524 @wolffon35mm @neilridgway @surfads @harrybryant @stephaniegilmore @binnstagram @zero_enganche @vaughandeadly @seano888 and Dave Rastovich.
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING, No.1 Caity Simmers From teenage girls to middle-aged men, @caitysimmers is now everyone’s favourite surfer and leading a hydra of surfing movements. When she won Pipeline earlier this year, she put herself amongst a group of women now seemingly comfortable in any surf. Overlooked, she’s also led a youth insurgence, threatening to return surfing to its rightful owners. But even more than that, she looks set to upend a production line of sameness that extends beyond the pro tour and into lineups around the world. Artistic, quirky, quiet, she’s already a cultural force in a changing lineup. She’s doing what Dane did. And the irony is that she won her world title on the same day as John Florence, from the same school of high-achieving introverts. “There’s a lot of elements to who she is and what she does,” offers @stephaniegilmore. “I think that’s the coolest part about it. She has a lot of interests outside of surfing, but also in and around all of surfing, the culture, the history, the films. She’s got really good intentions, and I think that’ll take her a long way because she’ll have a lot more substance to her than just getting trophies and collecting money.” SW424 is on sale now, link in bio. 📷 @billywatts @jimmicane
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING, No. 15… Thomas Robinson Thomas Robinson has lived a couple of lives already. In his teens he was a pro booger, shredded, a full Mike Stewart protege. Then he walked away from that and for a decade became a skate photographer, living in the city, embedded in skate culture, not surfing at all. Then a few years back he met up with @harrybryant and @fox_in_soks and found himself as the project photographer on their surf film, Motel Hell, and he was reborn as @lobster_cooked. That was the start of life number three, although at this point Lob hadn’t surfed in eight years. Then one hungover morning in Ireland, at maxed out Riley’s with Haz, @wadegoodall and @craig__anderson wanting no part of it, he grabbed a boog, grabbed some fins, and to the amazement/horror of all assembled, rocked off. The story of what happened next - and the story of how he’s become an unlikely lord of surf culture, living on the South Coast with a quiver of Mick Mackies - is told in SW424.
  • SURFING WORLD’S 50 MOST INTERESTING, No.22 Nobody has seen more of lutruwita’s empty southwest coastline than Dave Wyatt. A legendary figure in Tasmanian surfing, Dave has explored these wild waters for four decades, pioneering all sorts of waves while setting his cray pots. “Once we get our shots in for the morning we’ve got time for a surf, so it works out quite well. The funny thing is, I reckon the waves drag me to the crays. They’re always good where we go surfing. Basically, the prerequisite for my crew was being a surfer. It was bloody tough for some of them because they’d have to pull a hundred pots a day and then go for a big surf. I might’ve worn a few out.” Dave’s story features in SW424, written superbly by @ulski who jumps aboard Dave’s boat Velocity every year as part of the Southwest Clean Up crew. The shot of @tyler_hx is from Pedra Branca, which Dave stumbled on over 20 years ago. 📷 @stugibson @chizaslife
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